Beyond ‘smoky’ mezcal, Mexico’s agave spirits are full of variety and tradition

With a layer of chips and salsa providing a landing strip, I’m tasting a flight of agave spirits at El Chucho in D.C. The last is a raicilla with a pungent nose and a fruity, funky flavor. Something like … a guava and cheese danish? It’s nothing like the bell pepper notes I love in my favorite tequila. I can’t imagine burying it in a margarita, in which its idiosyncratic qualities would be obscured by lime and triple sec.