From any of the six tables in Artha Rini’s compact dining room, look to the ordering window and you will find Artharini, the restaurant’s chef and namesake, working in a space not much wider than a hallway. Pots and pans cover the stove, and storage containers filled with rice, spices and dry ingredients rise from every surface. The first time I flipped through the Kensington, Maryland, restaurant’s thick menu book, I wondered how the chef could create so much with so little. Then the food started coming.
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